Why was Duke Kahanamoku faumous for the surfboard?

The Duke, as sportswriters called him, was widely lauded for heroism in 1925, when a 40-foot yacht called Thelma capsized near Newport Beach in a turbulent sea, and he used his surfboard to swim out to the craft three times to save eight passengers from drowning. As a Hawaiian, he was not immune from racial prejudice.

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