How does a ocean wave change as it moves from deep water to shallow water?

When the wave reaches the shore it starts to interact with the bottom of the ocean. As it interacts with the surface of the bottom it creates a drag slowing down the bottom of the wave. The drag on the trough of the wave causes the crest to increase in height.

the first phase of the government’s plan for settlement was building the transcontinental railroad. the railroad provided a way to bring settlers and manufactured goods west and ship their agricultural and mining produce east. the transcontinental railroad was an essential artery for rapid development of the frontier.

the second phase of the government’s plan was a liberal land distribution policy that made it possible for many people to homestead. with these two key elements—transportation and cheap land—the government rapidly achieved its goal of persuading people to move west, settle on farms, and push back the frontier.